Bercy: Resolutely modern

In southeast Paris, hip new places are cropping up on either bank of the Seine, from the Quartier de la Gare in the 13th arrondissement to Bercy. Shopping, clubbing on the waterside, restaurants, contemporary art galleries...

The French capital has its equivalent of New York City’s Lower East Side. In southeast Paris, hip new places are cropping up on either bank of the Seine, from the Quartier de la Gare in the 13th arrondissement to Bercy. Shopping, clubbing on the waterside, restaurants, contemporary art galleries: the Seine is where it’s all happening!

Bibliothèque nationale de France, Paris © OTCP - David Lefranc - Dominique Perrault

Hit the streets

You go from one extreme to another in this area. One minute you’ll be enjoying a village atmosphere; the next, you’ll come across ultra-contemporary architecture. In Bercy, you can’t miss the vast modern structure housing the French finance ministry, or AccorHotels Arena (formerly known as Palais Ominsports de Paris Bercy), the grass-covered, pyramid-shaped stadium. The Cinémathèque française designed by Frank Gehry is also worth seeing. To get to the Left Bank, you walk across the Simone de Beauvoir footbridge leading to the courtyard of the Bibliothèque nationale de France, a majestic building with four towers shaped like half-open books. Then, as you stroll along the Seine in the direction of the Gare d’Austerlitz, you’ll come upon the area’s most striking landmarkLes Docks - Cité de la mode et du design. A bold architectural statement designed by Dominique Jakob and Brendan MacFarlane, the building resembles an enormous fluorescent green lizard.


The avant-garde outpost of contemporary art is Rue Louise-Weiss, the historic haunt of  young artists, which was stuffed with galleries until, in the late 1990s, some of them relocated to the Marais. But many of them have stayed on: like Air de Paris and Triple V, which show work by some of the edgiest artists in town. Les Docks - Cité de la mode et du design, showcasing a slew of up-and-coming fashion designers, is a must-see. On Rue Hélène-Brion, take a peek inside Mathgoth, one of the biggest galleries devoted to graffiti.


If shopping is on your agenda, head for Bercy Village. Originally built to accommodate the warehouses of the Paris wine trade, the village has been converted into an open-air shopping mall with a variety of shops (fashion, beauty, culture, interior decoration and so on). If you’re keen to keep up with the latest trends, go shopping at the Docks: that’s where you’ll find Silvera Outdoor, for instance, which makes super stylish outdoor furniture. The MK2 Bibliothèque cinema has a concept store selling DVDs and books as well as fine foods and must-have objects

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design - Façade
Bercy Village - Eté 2, Paris


This area is one big sports ground. You can actually swim on the banks of the Seine in the Josephine Baker floating swimming pool. If skating is your thing then head for the iconic Skatepark de Bercy right behind Bercy Arena. Basketball fans can shoot some hoops in an unusual  setting: under the elevated metro station Chevaleret.


Several good restaurants have opened in the stretch between Bercy and the Quartier de la Gare. Organic food devotees have plenty of choice at the 13th arrondissement end: from the wood-and-concrete decor of Yuman to the all-vegetarian menu at M.O.B. in the Cité de la Mode. Street food fans can sample a variety of offerings at the food trucks that stop off in the MK2 Bibliothèque courtyard: scrumptious burgers at the Camion qui fume, frozen yogurts at Igloo dans la ville, convivial bistro fare at La Brigade, and hot dogs at Larry’s. In the 12th arrondissement, the Chai 33 bar and restaurant is a wine lover’s paradise in the heart of Bercy Village, with a selection of 300 wines. 

Going out

The area has some great places for a night out, most of them a hybrid mix of  bar, restaurant and club. You can just drop in for a drink, or stay on until the small hours. The converted barges moored between the Pont de Tolbiac and the Pont de Bercy are very popular with Paris clubbers. The top three: Le BatofarLa Dame de Canton and Le Petit Bain. Another place that’s hot in Paris right now is Les Docks - Cité de la mode et du design, which houses three restaurant-and-club combos: Le Wanderlust, Communion and Café Oz Rooftop

Piscine Joséphine Baker, bassin extérieur, Paris © Gérard Sanz / DJS - Mairie de Paris
Le Petit Bain, DJ set sur la terrasse, Paris © Ian Riveira

Accor Arena

Concert hall
8 boulevard de Bercy, Paris, 75012

The Accor Arena, 3rd world arena, is a prestigious venue hosting exceptional concerts, shows and sport events. Since its recent......

Bercy Village

Shopping centres
Cour Saint-Émilion, Paris, 75012

A paved courtyard bordered with white stone storehouses and quiet terraces. An architecture that combines stone with steel, wood......

Science Expériences

Leisure park
16 Cour Saint-Emilion, Paris, 75012

Science Expériences, 850 m² devoted to Science has opened in Bercy Village. The objective: to bring science to life and make it......

Le Triangle

Jeu et détente
22 rue François Truffaut, Paris, 75012

The Triangle, a bar and climbing room, welcomes children and adults in a 900 m² space opposite Bercy park. With family or......

La Dame de Canton

Concert hall
Port de la gare, Paris, 75013

Housed in a genuine Chinese junk boat moored along the Seine, La Dame de Canton is a lively and popular Paris entertainment......

Bateau Phare

Concert hall
11 quai François Mauriac, Paris, 75013

Bateau Phare is set to open in late 2019 and have a line-up of funk, world and disco concerts, and will even have a restaurant on......

Le Petit Bain

Concert hall
7 Port de la Gare, Paris, 75013

Le Petit Bain is a 45-metre-long floating cultural venue, located on the Seine next to the Josephine Baker swimming pool in the......

Chai 33

Traditional French cuisine | In a shop/store
Bercy Village - 33 cour Saint-Émilion, Paris, 75012

Facing the Bercy Park at the centre of the pedestrian area of Bercy village, is the Chai 33 restaurant which is dedicated to......

Le Camion qui fume

Restaurant original for its venue or entertainment
MK2 Bibliothèque - 132 avenue de France, Paris, 75013

Welcome to Le Camion qui fume, the pioneer of the food truck and street food in Paris. Since 2009, this restaurant on wheels has......

Les Voûtes

Concert hall
19 rue des Frigos, Paris, 75013

Les Voûtes, located next to Les Frigos, resonates with experimental sounds, in a rustic setting that is truly astonishing.

Marché Bercy

Food markets
Entre le 14 place Lachambeaudie et le 11 rue Baron le Roy, Paris, 75012

Bercy Village is only a few minutes from this little food market where you can buy organic fruit and vegetables.

MK2 Bibliothèque

128-162 avenue de France, Paris, 75013

The MK2 Bibliothèque cinema has 14 screens, two restaurants and a confectionery counter. It also boasts ‘Le Store’, a shop......

Café Oz Rooftop

Restaurant original for its venue or entertainment | In a museum or monument
Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design - 34 quai d’Austerlitz, Paris, 75013

The Australian brand Café Oz Rooftop is located on the roof terrace of Cité de la Mode et du Design in the 13th arrondissement of......

Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir

Street, area of interest
Quai de Bercy - Quai François Mauriac, Paris, 75012

Only open to green transport, the footbridge presents a modern design with a lenticular structure. Its five spans cross the......

Patinoire de l'AccorHotels Arena

Jeu et détente
8 boulevard de Bercy, Paris, 75012

This ice rink is inside the AccorHotels Arena in Bercy. The ice rink welcomes both those practicing for a club or skating just......

Roller parc Bercy

Sporting activities
Parc de Bercy - Derrière l'AccorHotel Arena, Paris, 75012

Bercy roller park, at 800 m², is the 2nd biggest skate park in Paris. Situated behind the POPB, in Bercy Park, it has several......

Clos de Bercy - Vigne du Parc de Bercy

Street, area of interest
1 rue Joseph Kessel, Paris, 75012

The wine and spirits storehouses of the Cour Saint-Emilion, the cobbles, the tracks, the century-old trees and of course the......


Bar | In a museum or monument
32 quai d’Austerlitz, Paris, 75013

A bar, restaurant, club and art space, Wanderlust is situated at the Cité de la Mode et du Design, along the Seine in the 13th......


Traditional French cuisine
70 rue du Chevaleret, Paris, 75013

The Yuman offers organic and ultra-fresh products at all hours of the day: for a healthy breakfast, a lunch to eat in the......

Galerie Mathgoth

Exhibition and Trade Show venue
34 rue Hélène Brion, Paris, 75013

In the heart of the 13th arrondissement, particularly rich in large paintings, the galerie de Mathilde et Gauthier Jourdain is......

Galerie Triple V

Exhibition and Trade Show venue
24 rue Louise Weiss, Paris, 75013

The Triple V Gallery opened in Paris in September 2010. The gallery has discovered artists such as Michael Scott, Emmanuelle......