Once you’ve walked up Avenue de Clichy, you might as well push on a little further, to Abbesses and Rue Caulaincourt. This chic and bohemian district has held on to its working class ethos while becoming irresistibly trendy. Besides the lively shopping street Rue Lepic and the art deco metro station Lamarck-Caulaincourt, the area has plenty of appealing diversions: eco-friendly concept stores, indie designer boutiques, and hip bars and restaurants to hang out in. Modish bourgeois bohemians, tourists and trendy young things rub shoulders in the streets.
Scope out the area from a rooftop. A short distance from Rue Lepic, 7th Ciel, on Rue Joseph-de-Maistre, has a terrace perched high above street level offering a spectacular view over Paris. On the other side of the Montmartre cemetery, in a pleasant little square, is Karambole, where locals gather for an aperitif and a spot of dinner. Head northwards up Rue Caulaincourt, or along the east-lying Rue des Abbesses, and you’ll find a motley array of bars and restaurants. Top spots include the funky Festin Nu, Les Novices on Rue Caulaincourt and the ever-trendy Chez Camille, a cosy micro-bar at the foot of Montmartre Hill where the few terrace tables are snapped up the minute they’re free.
Good places to go
The area’s got more than just bars and restaurants: there’s a great place to go for anything, whether it’s a barber you need (L’Atelier Gentlemen), a hip hair salon (Le Garçon Coiffeur) or fantastic food shops, of which there are plenty in Rue Lepic. The best baguettes in Paris are lined up at Grenier à pains on Rue des Abbesses. And for the perfect roast chicken, pop along to Rôtisserie Dufrénoy in the street of the same name. Shopping and interior decoration enthusiasts will enjoy a browse at Rose Bunker, a vintage concept store with lots of inspired ideas on Rue Aristide-Bruant. And if you’re looking for a nice green spot in which to relax or join a game of boules, make your way to Square Suzanne Buisson, named after a Resistance heroine.