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Butte Montmartre
Venice has its gondolas, Montmartre its steps – physically demanding but Romanesque in the extreme. Countless novels, legends and “fabulous destinies” are set in the Butte, such as the Bateau-Lavoir in place Émile- Goudeau, where Picasso painted the Demoiselles d’Avignon, and the café made famous by Amélie Poulain in rue Lepic. The grocery from the film is higher up on rue des Trois-Frères. And there’s even more climbing to do – but Montmartre’s well worth it! Walk up rue Tholozé, for example, for a film or a drink in the winter garden of a tiny cinema patronised by Buñuel and Cocteau. Pause at the top of the street under the last remaining windmills, before continuing on up… Keep going! At the top is Sacré-Coeur, surrounded by a labyrinth of extraordinary little streets, and a vineyard, where the grape harvest is celebrated each year. There is also the flattering bust of Dalida in the square of the same name, breathtaking views over the rooftops of Paris, amazing crowds and hundreds of tranquil spots. From the square de la Turlure or the rue de la Chevalier-de-la- Barre, the Sacré-Coeur is just as wonderful from the side, the back or the front!


Basilique Sacré cœur
In 1873, the National Assembly voted for the construction of a basilica devoted to the Sacred Heart on the butte Montmartre. The site was chosen as much for its altitude (127 metres) as for its symbolism; it was sanctified long before with the martyrdom of Saint Denis and sullied by the violent acts of the Commune, in 1870. Pitfalls, controversies, underground quarries, and 83 buried pillars caused the work to extend over forty years. All these efforts were rewarded! From below, the Romano- Byzantine contours take on the appearance of a whipped-cream palace set on a hill of gardens and terraces: green and white outlined against swathes of azure. The view from the top of the steps, and especially from the top of the dome, is simply stunning.
Parvis du Sacré-Coeur (18th). M° Anvers. Tél. : 01 53 41 89 00.Basilique: 6am-11pm. Dome: 9am-5.45pm. Crypt: Times vary.


Place du tertre
Welcome to picture-postcard Montmartre, with its restaurant terraces and artists’ easels and portrait painters, who share 140 allotted spaces – 1 sq.m. for two artists working alternately. But the historic village square merits a little tour. The commune of Montmartre established its town hall at No 3, in 1790; No 19 is the headquarters of the Commune libre du Vieux Montmartre, which organises fun events and was founded in 1920. Another institution is the café Chez la mère Catherine where the word ‘bistro’ was said to have originated, in 1814. “Hurry” cried the occupying Russian soldiers, eager to down a drink before rejoining their ranks. The waitresses thought they were simply asking for something to drink… Standing serenely at the centre of all this activity, the adjoining church of Saint- Pierre de Montmartre conceals the Roman vestiges of the Abbaye des Dames.


Moulin Rouge
Montmartre hill once bristled with windmills. They closed one after the other, while the Moulin de la Galette became a popular dance hall. In 1889, another opened with just the exterior decor of a windmill. Soon the French Cancan – black stockings, garters and petticoats – created an air of euphoria and stardom for La Goulue and her fellow dancers. The first revues were staged and, in 1907, a certain Mistinguett began her music-hall career. After the war, a new generation of artists arrived, including Edith Piaf, Montant, Trenet and Aznavour... Every evening, glitz, feathers and sequins continue to weave their magic at the Moulin Rouge.
82, bd de Clichy (18th). M° Blanche.